Indie-brand MB&F (Max Büsser & Friends) have introduced their latest timepiece in the HM (Horological Machine) line. Meet the feisty new HM10 Bulldog, a watch that fits right into MB&F’s idiosyncratic philosophy.
The case is an imposing 45 mm across, 54 mm from ‘nose to tail’ and a height of 24 mm. The watch is presented in a choice of two materials – a titanium version or red gold version with titanium accents – and is topped by a massively domed sapphire crystal and sports stout but flexible lugs or “legs” that wrap firmly around the wrist. Separate crowns are used for winding and time-setting, located towards the rear of the case - left crown at 11 o’clock for winding; right crown at 1 o’clock for setting the time.
The watch is new but those familiar with MB&F models will notice similarities with what’s come before. The attention-grabbing 14 mm wide balance wheel, suspended beneath the central sapphire crystal dome and beating at traditional 2.5Hz (18,000vph), first appeared on Legacy Machine N°1 in 2011. Since then, it has become emblematic of the Legacy Machine models and have appeared in watches like the HM N°9, and it rises prominently in the HM10 Bulldog. The two time-telling domes are a nod to the HM3 ‘Frog’ but they first appeared as conical hour and minute-modules in the first Horological Machine N°3. The grillework design motif in the “ribs” set beneath the balance and in the tail-end are hat-tips to the automotive-inspired HM8, HMX and HM5.
The watch has an impressive power reserve display. The bulldog’s hinged jaws open and shut according to the amount of wind left in its mainspring. If can see the rows of shining teeth lining the jaws, the watch is powered up and is good for the next 45 hours. As the power dwindles, the jaws draw closer and eventually you are presented with a fully closed mouth. This mechanism, again, is inspired by something that that was first deployed in the 2014 LM1 Xia Hang. Flip the watch over and on the caseback, the following message is inscribed: Forget the dog, beware of the owner.
The red gold + titanium version is paired with a calf-leather strap with a custom-designed buckle and is priced at $120,000. The Titanium version features a hand-stitched blue calf-leather strap with Velcro system and titanium buckle and is priced at $105,000.