Genus presented the most novel time display in a wristwatch we’ve seen for years when it unveiled the GNS1.2 in 2019. Available in two versions (GNS1.2 WG and the GNS1.2 RG), this timepiece employed an orbital hours and a minutes display that involved an indicator that snaked around the dial on track that resembles the figure 8. Bear with me, this isn’t the kind of display that can be explained in a paragraph. Ten years of R&D went into developing this watch and for the effort, it rightfully took home the Mechanical Exception Prize at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). I mean, who was going to argue with a time display like this?
While the first two models were cased in rose gold or white gold, this year, Genus presents the GNS1.2 TD – with a case carved from Damascene Titanium. This material is made by laminating layers of titanium alloys, the final case material has a pattern resembling damascene steel. The block of titanium, made of layers that have been folded and folded again, is heated to a temperature between 1200°C and 1400°C. It is quite a laborious, manual-intensive process. The titanium block is then tempered blue, Genus says it can allows potential in on just exactly how blue they want the case to be. The upside is you get this beautiful case material with all these patterns (and hues of blue) that are unique to each particular timepiece.
The watch uses a large 43 mm case that’s 13.3 mm thick. It is fitted with a glass box-like sapphire crystal dial side and an exhibition caseback. The case is water-resistant to 30 meters. The watch is powered by the same manual-winding 160W-1.2 from 2019. The main plate and bridges are made of 18k gold. As one would expect, the movement is finished to a high quality, has a power reserve of 50 hours and an escapement that oscillates at 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph).
The dial is a hub of activity. The hours are indicated by a fixed arrow (or marker) at the 9 o’ clock position and each hour is represented by a satellite that orbits around the periphery of the dial. The minutes indicator is a bit more complex – the tens of minutes is denoted by an indicator that is akin to the engine of a 12-carriage train that snakes around the two sub-dials that house the ten units that make up the hour.
The train (or centipede if you like) travels around these two sub-dials in a figure eight-like formation. The ones of the minute is indicated by a revolving ones disc set against a fixed arrow at the 3 o’ clock position. This free-flowing time display is complex can be a lot to take in one go, but you have to admit that this is the most ingenious displays you have ever seen. The watch is priced at CHF145,000.