Right from the time Doxa unveiled the SUB — a purpose-built diver’s watch intended for the general public — in 1967, the brand has had a cult-like following in the diving community. And now, the Swiss brand has launched a limited edition reissue of a legendary chronograph diver it launched 50 years ago.
When it was first unveiled in 1967, the SUB concept presented many radical innovations. It was water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters, was the first to feature a patented rotating bezel with the official no-decompression dive table. This watch would also become an easily recognizable legend due to its orange dial – a first for a diving watch. In 1969, Doxa unveiled the Sub 200 T.Graph, a chronograph version of the diving model powered by a column wheel chronograph movement sourced from Eberhard.
Though many in the community were left shell-shocked when Doxa unveiled a $70,000 Sub 200 T.Graph in 18k yellow gold to mark its 130th year at Baselworld 2019, the watch has now been reissued in stainless steel to mark its 50th anniversary.
With a diameter of 43 mm, the T.Graph is topped by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. In addition to being water-resistant to a depth of about 200 meters, the watch also features the famous patented unidirectional rotating bezel with the dual indication of dive time in minutes and depth in meters to calculate the dive time without decompression stops. The bezel also has a SuperLuminova pearl at 12 o'clock.
Just like the original model, the legendary face finished in semi-matte orange features two counters, one at 9 o'clock indicating the seconds, and the other at 3 o'clock indicating the chronograph's 30 minutes. The baton-type hands and the insert on the chronograph’s seconds hand and indexes are all filled with SuperLuminova beige “Light Old Radium.”
This limited steel edition, as was the case with the 18K gold version, is equipped with new old stock 7734 VALJOUX movements. These original calibers, dating back 30 years, have been carefully preserved by the Swiss family Jenny, who took over ownership of the DOXA brand two decades ago. Each movement has of course been completely revised and made absolutely reliable prior to fitting.
The watch is fitted with a “grains of rice” bracelet, also crafted from 316L steel and featuring a folding clasp with diving extension and the DOXA fish symbol. Limited to just 300 pieces, the watch is priced at $4,900.