IWC’s newly revamped Portugieser line includes a new Perpetual Calendar wristwatch in 42 mm which features a new in-house integrated perpetual calendar movement. This new timepiece is available in three versions including a handsome blue boutique edition.
The Schaffhausen brand can claim to have created the first perpetual calendar wristwatch which had all its setting adjusted via the crown. This was back in 1985 when Kurt Klaus invented the now-famous perpetual calendar module (used on the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3750) that did away with the use of pushers to adjust certain settings. It was a landmark development and paved the way for easier-to-use perpetual calendars.
The self-winding manufacture Caliber 82650 is not a modular, but an integrated perpetual calendar movement. This is the first perpetual calendar complication in the 82000 Caliber family. It may be recalled that the first Portugieser perpetual calendar was introduced in 2003, but that was a modular movement with the characteristic moon phase complication.
On the new 82650 movement, the calendar module moves with a single impulse during the night. As with their in-house movement now, the automatic Pellaton winding is equipped with zirconium oxide ceramic components and builds up a power reserve of 60 hours. All the displays are synchronized with each other and can be adjusted simply via the crown.
The watch is available in three versions: Ref. IW344203 is stainless steel with a silver-plated dial, gold hands and appliques and a black alligator leather strap. Ref. IW344202 is in 5N red gold with a silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques and a brown alligator leather strap. A third boutique edition (Ref. IW344205) is the pick of the lot and is dressed in a blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques and cased in 5N red gold. This watch is paired with a blue alligator leather strap.
All three versions have the same case dimensions. The case width is 42.4 mm while the profile is 13.8 mm. The case is water-resistant to 30 meters, topped by a domed sapphire crystal, and is fitted with an exhibition caseback. On the dial, the displays for the date, month and day of the week are distributed over three sub-dials at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock. The perpetual moon phase display was integrated into the month display and deviates from the actual orbit of the moon by only one day after 577.5 years. An indicator in the weekday display counts the years until the next leap year.
As far as prices go, the stainless steel Ref. IW344203 is priced at $22,900; the 5N gold Ref. IW344202 is at $32,900 while the boutique edition Ref. IW344205 is at $32,900.