As part of its new Portugieser collection unveiled on the Watches & Wonders 2020 platform today, IWC has introduced the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph. Available in two versions, both limited to 50 watches only, this timepiece watch has a flyback chronograph, a retrograde date indicator, and a flying tourbillon.
If a strange sense of déjà vu has dawned you now, it’s because you are thinking of the IWC Da Vinci Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph unveiled during SIHH 2017. In fact, this new Portugieser shares the same movement as that particular Da Vinci model. As mentioned earlier, the timepiece unveiled today is available in two versions, both limited to 50 watches. The boutique edition (Ref. IW394005) is cased in 18K Armor Gold with a blue dial. Armor Gold is IWC’s proprietary version of 5N red gold.
To create Armor Gold, the microstructure of the gold alloy is altered during the manufacturing process which results in a material, which IWC claims, is significantly harder and five to ten times as wear-resistant as conventional 5N gold. The second version uses a platinum case (Ref. IW394006) and has a silvered dial.
Both cases (Armor Gold and platinum) have the same dimensions. The case is 43.5 mm wide and 16 mm thick, water-resistant to 30 meters, and fitted with a box-like sapphire crystal atop the dial and a sapphire crystal caseback. The dial is dominated by a flying tourbillon at 6 o’ clock and a retrograde date display at 9. The flyback chronograph can record elapsed-time intervals up to 11 hours and 59 minutes. These intervals are displayed on a single subdial at 12 o’clock, with hands and indices for both hours and minutes to ensure an easy and intuitive reading of the elapsed time.
As mentioned earlier, the watch is powered by the manufacture Caliber 89900, a self-winding movement with a power reserve of 68 hours thanks to an 18K gold rotor. The pallet and escape wheel are made of diamond-coated silicon, an extremely hard and friction-resistant surface treatment that is beneficial to maintaining the power reserve.
The boutique edition (Ref. IW394005 ) is paired with a blue braided calf leather strap and is priced at CHF105,000 (Approx. AED388,000 on current exchange rates, but this could vary) while the platinum version (Ref. IW394006) is paired with a Santoni blue alligator leather strap and is priced at CHF123,000 (Approx. AED454,000).