The Schaffhausen brand’s SIHH 2017 novelties revolved around the relaunch of the Da Vinci line inspired by its Eighties models and targeted mainly towards women. Given the Eighties nod, the most emblematic model of the collection was obviously going to be the perpetual calendar chronograph, but our pick is the Da Vinci Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph in red gold. Nobody saw this one coming. 

The IWC-manufactured 889900 caliber with its solid red gold rotor

This timepiece uses a 44 mm red gold case and features the characteristic movable lugs seen in the Eighties models. The movable lugs ensure the watch sits better on the wrist. The chronograph pushers and lugs are in red gold as well. The dial is silver-plated with applied red gold numerals and is distinguished by an arc-shaped retrograde date display on the left side and numbered 1 through 31 to mark the days of the month. A blued hand moves in one-day increments and snaps back to 1 after reaching 31. In months with fewer than 31 days, the crown is used to advance the date pointer back to the first day of the new month.
A flying tourbillon and a retrograde date display dominate the dial

A flying tourbillon is visible at 6 o’ lock and has a complex hacking seconds function to ensure accurate time setting down to the second. When the crown is pulled out, two levers clamp onto the balance rim, halting the balance, wheel train, and hands.

The flyback chronograph can record elapsed-time intervals up to 11 hours and 59 minutes and can be read off a single subdial at 12 o’clock, with hands and indices for both hours and minutes. In the image accompanying the article, the chronograph has measured 10 hours and 8 minutes. The central chronograph seconds hand can measure stopped times to 1/4-second accuracy.

Flip the watch over to view the IWC-manufactured 889900 caliber with its solid red gold rotor. The 4 Hz (28,800 vph) movement has a 68-hour power reserve and has a pallet and escape wheel made of diamond-coated silicon, an extremely hard and friction-resistant surface treatment that helps in maintaining the 68-hour power reserve. 

The watch is presented with a dark brown alligator leather strap by Santoni with its 18-carat red gold folding clasp fits perfectly around the wrist. It is water-resistant to 3 bar is priced at $103,000.

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