Glashütte Original has introduced a new perpetual calendar with a silicon balance spring and a 100-hour power serve in its Senator Excellence line at Baselworld. The Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is the latest addition to the new family that was launched at Basel last year.
A perpetual calendar is a sophisticated complication; it is a calendar function that assures the correct constellation of date, weekday and leap year up to the year 2100.
Despite the number of indications on the dial, the design of this new timepiece is fairly simple. The eye is drawn to the characteristic moonphase and panorama date window seen in the Excellence models. The weekday, month and leap year indicators are presented in softly curved windows spread out across the dial. The leap year indication is in a sub-dial at 12, the hand moves counter-clockwise across a scale of 1 to 4 to ensure clarity.
The chapter ring around the silver grained dial, the slim blued steel hands and the Roman numerals are again well within the design codes of this new line. The tiny red five-minute markers add a pop of color to an otherwise sober dial. The curve of the moon phase at 8 o'clock echoes the gently sweeping lines of the case, while the domed moon in relief is set off by a starry, galvanic blue sky.
This watch uses a very wearable 42 mm case (it is only 12.8 mm in height) made either in red gold or stainless steel and features a mix of polished and brushed surfaces. While the stainless steel model presents the leap year and minute numerals in black, in the red gold version these are printed in red. Depending on the color, the watch is paired with a black or brown Louisiana alligator leather strap with pin buckle or fold-over clasp.
The engine powering this watch, the Caliber 36-02, uses a perpetual calendar module on the existing Caliber 36 movement that was introduced last year. When unveiled last year, Caliber 36 became the first movement from Glashütte Original to feature a silicon balance spring, a huge change from the traditional codes of this German brand. Glashütte Original has benefited from the increased emphasis that its parent, the Swatch Group, has placed in deploying silicon balance springs across its brand.
The Caliber 36-02 is a 4 Hz movement and uses a balance wheel with a four gold regulation screws. It is just 7.35 mm thick and has a power reserve of 100 hours. It uses a bayonet mount to secure the movement within the case. In the finest Glashütte tradition, this movement is lovingly finished with surfaces that are brushed, beveled and decorated with perlage. The characteristic Glashütte ribbing is visible on the rotor and bridges.
The engineers of this movement designed it to be easy to use. The setting of the date can be monitored directly in the display window, while discreet correctors on the case enable adjustments to weekday, month and moon phase displays. Thanks to a generous power reserve, the user may not have to use the universal corrector to change the day, date and month that often.
All models in the Excellence line are subjected to a series of rigorous tests over a period of 24 days at the Saxon manufactory under conditions that are stricter than the ones used in German Chronometer testing.
The watch is priced at just under $25,000 (AED91,00) for steel and $40,000 (AED147,000) in red gold.