Doxa brings back the big, bold diver’s chronograph with the introduction of the new Sub 200 C-Graph. The watch is presented in six characteristic Doxa colorways and is the second chronograph introduced in recent years by the Swiss brand known for its purpose-built tool watches.
If you have followed the brand, you would know that Doxa has made a bit of a comeback lately under new management. Much of the conversation around their return has been about the Sub 300 models. However, at Baselworld 2019, Doxa celebrated its 130th anniversary by reviving the Sub 200 diver. It was a finalist at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2019 in the Challenge category (for watches under CHF4,000), losing eventually to Tudor’s Black Bay P01, a slightly polarizing entry based on a prototype diver made for the U.S. Navy in the 1960’s.
In terms of size, the latest from Doxa goes against the prevailing zeitgeist that prefers 40 mm (case width) or thereabouts for a vintage-inspired dive watch. The stainless steel case of the Sub 200 C-Graph is an imposing 45-mm-wide and 17.4-mm-thick. Fitted with narrow lugs and a closed caseback, the case as the name suggests, is depth-rated to 200 meters.
It is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal framed by a uni-directional bezel that has a sapphire crystal insert. The dial has a tri-compax layout and the 30-minute and 12-hour-chronograph counters have little arrow-shaped indicators while the running seconds hand is at the 9 o’ clock position. As Doxa is wont to do now, the Sub 200 C Graph is offered in six colorways. So apart from the characteristic orange (Professional), the watch is also available in Silver (Searambler), Black (Sharkhunter), Navy (Caribbean), Yellow (Divingstar), and Turquoise (Aquamarine).
A self-winding Selita SW501 chronograph movement serves as the beating heart of this watch. This is a 4 Hz movement with a power reserve of 48 hours. It is paired with a rice-of-beads bracelet fastened by a deployant clasp featuring a diver’s extension or a rubber strap that matches the color of the dial. The Sub 200 C-Graph will retail at CHF2,690 on the steel bracelet and CHF2,650 on the rubber strap and is available for sale on the Doxa website.