Doxa has made a spirited comeback in recent years, riding on a wave of vintage-inspired diver’s watches from its past catalogue. Known for their characteristic orange dials, the brand was very popular with the diving community in the late 1960s and 70s thanks to the rugged, purpose-built diver’s watches it produced. And now with neo-vintage watches all the rage, Doxa has successfully plumbed its archives to create reissues like the SUB 300 ‘Black Lung’ and the more recent SUB 200 T.Graph.
At Baselworld this year, Doxa celebrated its 130th anniversary by reviving the much-loved SUB 200 model in steel. However much of Doxa’s Baselworld headlines were dominated by another release —the $70,000 Sub 200 T.Graph in 18k yellow gold — and news of the SUB 200 flew under the radar but it was good enough to pick up a GPHG nomination in the Challenge category (for watches under CHF4,000 category).
Originally launched in 1967, the SUB concept is considered by many as the first truly purpose-designed diving watch for the general public. Besides being rated to a depth of 300 meters, it was the first to feature Doxa’s patented unidirectional rotating bezel with the dual indication of dive time in minutes and depth in meters to avoid decompression stops for a safe return to the surface. The SUBs was instantly recognizable because of its orange dial, also a first for a diver's watch, contrasting with the conventional black or white dials available then.
The reissued SUB 200 is still a three-handed diver's watch with a case made of 316L stainless steel. With a diameter of 42 mm and 14 mm thin, it is topped by a sapphire crystal that takes on the distinctive shape of the domed plexiglass used back in the day. Water-resistant to 20 ATM, about 200 meters, this model features a unidirectional rotating sapphire bezel.
It features a velvet black dial with baton-type hands, applied indexes and elements on the bezel, all of which are coated with Super-LumiNova beige “Light Old Radium” to accentuate the authentic vintage character. A date window in contrasting white is placed at 3 o’ clock.
The watch is powered by the trusty ETA 2824-2 movement, a self-winding number with a power reserve of 42 hours. The watch is paired with the distinct “beads of rice” bracelet, also made of 316L steel and featuring a folding clasp with diving extension.
While the black dial version (Ref. 718.104.22.168) ‘Sharkhunter’ is out in November this year, there are more versions in colors like orange, turquoise, silver, yellow, and blue are also on the anvil. A limited edition version of this watch is also available and is limited to 130 pieces. The Sharkhunter is priced at $990.